The art of eating has so few triumphs these days it’s nice to see one celebrated when it comes along. In this case it’s Onion Soup, the favored liquid of women who could fit a yardstick between their chin and the bottom of their cleavage. That seems to be the space he’s measuring, anyway.

Not merely a soup to be eaten - no! A soup to be studied, gazed at, talked about, adn allowed to call back memorable travel - eventful nights. Dude, it’s just soup. It’s also soup from a meatpacker, which makes you wonder where it comes from, and what’s in it.

Pay no heed to its provenance, kind sir - mark this new soup! Mark it well!